Additional Information

Cutting Labels

Use the pattern pieces as labels while you work through your project. I like to keep mine clipped to the fabric as I work along so I have the markings and the piece name handy!

Tutorials

The following YouTube tutorials are available to support you through making your design. Some of the tutorials will have modifications or hacks done by the instructor and some will focus on specific areas of the design.

mgrahamsews YouTube: https://youtu.be/-iNyAd1keiA

Ashtown Creations YouTube: https://youtu.be/FKAJ0bNLZ6E

Siah Swag Bags YouTube: https://youtu.be/9hF4PYtDxJw 

Add-ons and Hacks

Let the fun begin! I like to think of my design as a blank canvas that provides you with an opportunity to customize and enhance it for yourself. I do recommend making the design the first time by following every step and figuring out where everything sits before changing it. Here are some ways you can consider changing up this design:

Change the materials up - and change the interfacing

Use a non-stretchy faux leather or vinyl for Piero and skip the interfacing on those pieces. The pattern material list is designed for using quilting cotton or a woven material that may need interfacing for durability.

• To change it up to use that heavier material, just eliminate the woven interfacing, this is if you are using Waxed Canvas, Faux Leather, Vinyl, Cork, Softshell, Waterproof Canvas or other heavier items. This makes cutting out go so much faster!!!

Note that I do not recommend using these heavier materials for the padded strap - that is a pain to turn! But to turn that right side out, consider leaving a large turning gap down the side of the strap, then you'll close that gap up when you topstitch it closed.

Are you trying to make the strap with heavy materials?

When you sew the strap pieces together, leave a turning gap along one side. Make sure it's a good 7-9" (17.8-22.8 cm) long, and turn your strap through that gap. Be sure to clip it evenly before doing the topstitching, so no one will ever know!!

Change the stabilizer

Not a fan of foam??

Try using Decovil. As this design is bound, I suggest replacing ONLY the foam in the body with Decovil, not the foam in the strap. Ensure that's it's fully cured after you fuse it, for best results; that means letting it sit for 24 hours before moving your project. 

Note that I do NOT recommend changing the foam in the Strap as it's what provides you with a nicely padded strap against your neck, over the shoulder, and against your body. 

Want a slouchier bag?

Consider removing the foam stabilizer from the body altogether. This provides you with a more collapsible style for smushing in a suitcase if you're travelling.

Want more structure?

Add a bit of fusible fleece (Pellon Thermolam) or thin Bosal foam to the front pocket and flap - be sure to trim a 1/2" (1.3 cm) off from all the edges so it's kept out of the seam allowances.

Add an interior slip pocket

Testers had fun adding their own unique twist on adding a slip pocket to the inside of the Piero sling so there is not a single right way to do this, just so many great options! Here's a couple of ideas:

1. Use the exterior construction pieces and leave out the flap! That means you can skip cutting the Main Lining and cut lining and interfacing pieces for the Back Body, Pocket Lining, and 2 more Slip Pockets. Follow the instructions to put them together just like you did the exterior body.

2. Cut an additional two lining and interfacing Slip Pockets. Sew them together along the top and bottom (one straight edge, and the deep curve edge), turn right side out and topstitch whichever seam you want to have as the top. Use the markings from the Pocket Lining pattern piece to place the top edge of your pocket on the Main Lining. Baste the two sides in place, and topstitch the bottom. 

3. Make a straight slip pocket. Cut lining and interfacing 7" wide x 11" high (17.8 x 28 cm), fold in half bringing the top and bottom edges right sides together. Sew along that top edge. Turn it right side out and topstitch the top edge. Use the markings from the Pocket Lining pattern piece to place the top edge of your pocket on the Main Lining. Baste the two sides in place, and topstitch the bottom. 

Use 1-1/2" (3.8 cm) webbing for the strap

Sometimes the printed webbing that's 1-1/2" (3.8 cm) wide is just perfect for our materials, so here's how you want to adjust the strap to use it:

1. The pattern piece for the strap is made up of four different pieces taped together. Instead of taping all four together, only tape together the upper three (leave the skinniest end piece off altogether  - don't add the bottom of the F star). 
2. Cut your webbing a bit longer - about 3-4" (7.6-10.2 cm) longer than the cutting list advises.
3. Ensure your strap adjuster and swivel hook are for 1-1/2" (3.8 cm) wide webbing.
4. Continue construction as per the pattern without any changes (your padded strap will be shorter with longer webbing).